WOVEN FOR THE KING
ROYAL BROCADES OF THE SIAMESE COURT
Speaker: Thirabhand Chandracharoen

The Siamese court during the Ayutthaya period (1350-1767 CE) of Thailand imported and consumed textiles such as brocades from India, Persia, and China as a display of their status. For example, many of the gold brocades from India, such as phaa tat or phaa taa takataen were densely patterned and used as upholstery and wrappers of regalia. Local weavers began to produce brocades, or phaa yok, consumed by local leaders and then later sent gold brocades to the Siamese court as tribute items. Gold brocades were reserved for royalty, nobility and officials of high rank. Officials of lower rank were allowed to wear silver brocades while peoples of all status were able to buy and wear brocades made of silk or cotton. Silver and gold brocades were not available in the market but had to be specially ordered and were woven in the compounds of the local rulers. Long rectangular brocade cloths were worn in chongkraben style, similar to the Indian dhoti. Brocades were also used as ritual items in temples and within the royal household. The Siamese courts of Thonburi and Rattanakosin periods continued to use brocades as attire, regalia, and furnishings.

Introducing
THIRABHAND CHANDRACHAROEN

Thirabhand Chandracharoen is curator for the textiles section at Suanpathum Palace of HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn of Thailand. He curated the exhibit Tied Together at the Jim Thompson Center for Textiles and the Arts from December 2004 until March 2005 focusing on ikat textiles. Thirabhand is a frequent lecturer on Thai textiles and arts.